A rare Jeanne Lanvin labeled set that is from the mid- 60s and would have been produced during the reign of Castillo. This is an "ÈxÈcutÈ par Maria Carine sur autorization spÈciale" (made by Maria Carine with special authorization).
This is a special garment and needs a bit more explanation - it is best explained by this excerpt from the : Maria Carine was owned by Maria Moutet-Chenu. She worked with four couturiers: Heim, Desses, LaRoche, and Lanvin. After the couture showings, each couturier would give her sketches based upon the garments they had just shown. Moutet-Chenu made the toiles which were approved by the designers. Then each ready-to-wear garment was cut individually by hand in the Maria Carine workrooms in Paris using the same fabrics that were used for the couture garment. Maria employed hundreds of seamstresses, many of whom worked in their own homes. They sewed each garment individually to exacting standards. This was the highest of early high-end ready-to-wear.
In other words - this is a hand sewn, authorized piece, that would have been completely overseen by Castillo and was the way Lanvin would have produced ready to wear for their clients. These were only produced for a small window of time before more mas market production methods took over. I love the classic cut of this set with it's box coat and chic sheath dress. The dress is a slim cut simple shift that is cut to skim over your curves. It is refined and graceful and the pale robins egg blue color is perfection on the linen textured fabric. I love the contrasting panel of white and how you can cinch the dress in or wear it as a simple sheath. The coat is as classic a cut as you could ask for but with wonderful details like the discreet pockets hidden along the front seams and the simple un-collared neckline that allows the collar of the dress to sit perfectly above when worn together. It is simplicity mixed with a masterful seaming and cutting and extraordinary fabric. This is really the equivalent of a made to order, one step under couture, garment! Hand finishes and extra detail throughout. Excellent condition and a rare set! Item# DD818